THE LEOTARD GUIDE new
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We’ve all done it…

Hours are spent shopping online for a new and gorgeous leo in a cut and color that we are sooo excited about. Too many cute new leos come out every year! Do you choose lace? Two-tone? Prints? V-neck or boat neck? What colors do you love? What can you get away with in class?

Then the leotard finally arrives, and as you open the package your excitement gives way to “Oh…”, “it’s ok...”, or “hummm”... but then ultimate disappointment. Is it the style or fit? Sometimes it’s hard to identify what isn't quite working, but that leo just doesn’t make it out of the drawer after the first or second wear.

OUR SURVEYS SUGGEST THAT

Only about 40-50% of a dancer's wardrobe is in regular rotation. More than half of the hundreds of dancers we see every year come to us not knowing, objectively, what looks good on them. Let alone what they should be wearing for their all-important auditions, and when shooting photos and videos.

This guide will help you with that.

WE GET IT

There’s a lot going on these days. You may be thinking, "It would be nice to look great, but it doesn’t matter that much. Whatever feels good and is in my fav color will work."

HOWEVER...

You only have 3 seconds to make the first impression through your photos, and less than 30 seconds in your videos. 

I’ll repeat.  3 seconds. That’s it. 

And here’s the worst part of it…

IN THIS GUIDE WE'LL COVER:

Body types - balancing leotards for your shape

Leg cut heights

Chest coverage

Fabric Choice Pros and Cons

Patterns, when are they are too much or just enough?

RESEARCH ABOUT FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Research shows that 90% of the time those first impressions hold long-term. They are made in the fastest and most primitive part of our brain, so they are very very hard to change.

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QUALITY OF MARKETING

The quality of your marketing materials is crucial to moving your career forward. Making sure the leotard you’ve chosen flatters your body shape and works with the lines of the poses you’re creating is critical. You’ve put in too many hours, too many years, too much money, and sacrifice to overlook this essential choice. When deciding if you're right for the job, directors will come back to view your videos and photos again and again.

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BEGIN WITH WHAT “FEELS” GOOD

We often begin with what “feels” good - a softer fabric choice, a color that sings to us, a leo that is super tight to control a bust, or a little too big to hide wide hips (or make us feel thinner on a fat day).

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PRODUCTIVE CLASS OR REHEARSAL

We all know how putting on your fav leo sets you up mentally, physically, and emotionally for a productive class or rehearsal. Let’s get to work stacking your closets with leotards that not only feel good, but also look incredible on you too!

NOW - THE IMPORTANT FINE PRINT BEFORE WE MOVE ON....

NO DANCER WAS HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THIS GUIDE

However, they all understood that these images were not going to be altered in any way.  We lit The Leotard Guide images to specifically show the shape and proportions of the dancers and the leotards. This is not the most flattering way to light a body. These photos could be considered leotard and body-shape mugshots.

Ladies, the dance world, and I personally, thank you for your bravery in participating in this project.

”

To keep this guide completely and authentically unbiased, I have chosen to not ask any dancewear companies to participate or collaborate in this project.

The leotards styles shown here were owned by my studio or brought in by dancers. This guide is intended for educational purposes only.

”

It’s my goal that you be able to see overall lines and shapes so that you can start to see yourself and your leotards objectively, thereby making good choices everyday. I deliberately chose not to credit the leotards and companies.  There are just far too many options out there to work with or consider and we do not endorse any particular company. 

”

In this guide we’ll cover:

- Body types - balancing leotards for your shape

- Leg cut heights

- Chest coverage

- Fabric choice pros and cons

- Patterns, when are they are too much or just enough?

Perfect Body

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS PERFECT BODY

After 20 years of shooting tens of thousands of dancers, from student to pre-professional, commercial, and concert dance professionals, I truly believe there is no such thing as a “perfect” dancer's body. Even among dancers who, on first glance, would be assumed to have this “perfect” structure.

I would challenge you to ask them if there's something about themselves that they don’t like or would wish to change. I bet there is, and I should know. I've heard them all. Worst of all, these insecurities have a way of coming out in photoshoots.

We all have things to work on; I continue to encourage the dancers we shoot in my studio to put aside what they feel about their shape, and cultivate gratitude for the strengths they have been born with.

FINDING BALANCE IN YOUR LEOTARD CHOICE

Humans find beauty in symmetry. This holds true, particularly in photos. This symmetry is where we begin finding what type of leotard will most flatter your individual shape. While looking for balance when trying on leos, the first step is to be objective.

Turn off that part of your brain that focuses on areas that you are sensitive about. Stand several feet from a mirror, focus from your hips to your shoulders, and look at the overall structure. If you were to sketch the outline of your shape on a piece of paper, what would it look like? Just as the top of your ears line up with your eyes, where do your hips line up? The hip/rib/shoulder balance and perspective is our starting place.

Finding Balance
Finding Balance

FINDING BALANCE IN YOUR LEOTARD CHOICE

Humans find beauty in symmetry. This holds true, particularly in photos. This symmetry is where we begin finding what type of leotard will most flatter your individual shape. While looking for balance when trying on leos, the first step is to be objective.

Turn off that part of your brain that focuses on areas that you are sensitive about. Stand several feet from a mirror, focus from your hips to your shoulders, and look at the overall structure. If you were to sketch the outline of your shape on a piece of paper, what would it look like? Just as the top of your ears line up with your eyes, where do your hips line up? The hip/rib/shoulder balance and perspective is our starting place.

WIDER SHOULDERS

WIDE SHOULDER CHEATSHEET

LARGER BUSTS

LARGER BUSTS CHEATSHEET

WIDER HIPLINES

WIDER HIPS CHEATSHEET

LONGER TORSOS

LONG TORSO CHEATSHEET

SHORT TORSO

SHORT WAISTED CHEATSHEET

SQUARE/BOY BODIES

SQUARE/BOXY SHAPE CHEATSHEET

CURVY LADIES

CURVY DANCERS CHEATSHEET

FULL FIGURED DANCERS

FULL FIGURED CHEATSHEET

LEG CUT ROLLS/HIKES

To the ladies who hike or roll up your leotards to achieve the “super high cut” look. Please be very real about whether it looks good on you from a 360 degree view point. I've seen very few dancers where this effect looks good from the back.  Remember that directors, choreographers and teachers are seeing you from all angles. Better to find a leotard that looks good on you no matter the point of view. 

torso

FACE SHAPE AND SHOULDER SLOPE

Given the above  guidelines, not all necklines look good on everyone. Your face shape, and the slope or angle of your shoulders also need to be considered.  While it’s not as common, occasionally we have a dancer that breaks the rules for these reasons.  Learning to see yourself objectively, while looking for balance, will go a long way in finding what works best on you and what will be most flattering.

Face Shop Shoulder

COLOR AND PATTERNS

Keeping it clean and simple for auditions and your photoshoots is the way to go. Directors and casting agents want to see you, not be subconsciously distracted by your leotard.

  • Avoid crazy or multiple straps.
  • Avoid competing or complex patterns. Fun patterns are just that, fun. Save those for rehearsals or open classes. 
  • Choose colors that compliment and indicate your personality and style. If you are a soft, fluid dancer, pastels are great. If you are a fiery extrovert, vibrant, bolder tones speak to your spirit.
  • Warmer skin tones will be flattered by warmer and/or bolder colors
  • Cooler skin tones will, in contrast, look better in cooler and/or pastel colors
Color and Pattern

FABRICS CHOICES FOR PHOTOSHOOTS

  • Cotton And velvet are lovely and comfortable in person but add bulk to a dancer in photoshoots.  These materials tend to soak in the light more than reflect it (and cotton shows all sweat stains)
  • Blends like nylon/lycra with a tiny bit of sheen tend to shoot best
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LEG CUT ROLLS/HIKES

To the ladies who hike or roll up your leotards to achieve the “super high cut” look. Please be very real about whether it looks good on you from a 360 degree view point. I've seen very few dancers where this effect looks good from the back.  Remember that directors, choreographers and teachers are seeing you from all angles. Better to find a leotard that looks good on you no matter the point of view. 

FACE SHAPE AND SHOULDER SLOPE

Given the above  guidelines, not all necklines look good on everyone. Your face shape, the slope or angle of your shoulders also need to be taken into consideration.  While it’s not as common, occasionally we have a dancer that breaks the rules for these reasons.  Learning to see yourself objectively, looking for balance, will go a long way to finding what works best on you and what will be most flattering.

COLOR AND PATTERNS

Keeping it clean and simple for auditions and your photoshoots is the way to go, directors and casting agents want to see you, not be distracted by your leotard.

  • Avoid crazy or multiple straps.
  • Avoid competing or complex patterns. Fun patterns are just that, fun. Save those for rehearsals or open class. 
  • Choose colors that compliment and indicate your personality and style. If you are a soft, fluid dancer, pastels are great. If you are a fiery extrovert,  vibrant, bolder tones speak to your spirit.
  • Warmer skin tones will be flattered by warmer and/or bolder colors
  • Cooler skin tones will contrastingly look better in cooler and/or pastel colors

FABRICS CHOICES FOR PHOTOSHOOTS

  • Cotton And velvet are lovely and comfortable in person but add bulk to a dancer in photoshoots.  These materials tend to soak in the light more than reflect it (and cotton shows all sweat stains)
  • Nylon lycra or blends with a tiny bit of sheen tends to shoot best

CONCLUSION

Are you still reading this? Wow, thank you for your attention and for taking the time to read this guide. I hope it was helpful. Please let us know what surprised you the most, and whether you were able to find the perfect leotard! We had a great time working with these lovely dancers creating this guide. If you have any questions please feel free to email,DM, or text us at the studio!

I truly hope that this will have you finding confidence and success in your leotard choices. We all know that a good leotard can be the right start to an excellent class/rehearsal or audition (or you wouldn’t be reading this!) Until next time! Much love from our family here at Rachel Neville Studios. Now go out there and dance (and look amazing while doing so!)

©2023 Rachel Neville Photography. All Rights Reserved.

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We see a lot of dancers with wider shoulders in North America.  These dancers tend to have smaller hips, which can make for lovely, long leg lines.  However, they often struggle to not feel like a gymnast in their leotards.

In order to balance this shape, we look for neck and shoulder lines that are narrower, or angle inwards towards the neck. We want to pull the eye vertically towards the hipline rather than sideways across the shoulders.

Camisoles, square neck tanks, and some halter neck lines are a good place to start.  Try to find straps that sit straight on your shoulders and line up with your hip points. Halters are well loved by this body shape, provided that the angle of the halter does not reveal too much shoulder/chest skin (such as a very narrow halter turtleneck).

Beware of wide open backs, round circle cut out backs, or criss crosses that will elongate the horizontal lines across your shoulders. Leg lines for this body type have versatility and are dependent on torso length.

Wider shoulders cheat sheet

  • Straps that sit right over the outer hip line work best
  • Halters with the right cut can be great
  • Long sleeves with V necklines can work
  • Avoid cap, short sleeves, turtle necks, and boat neck lines
  • Vertical V lines work best for backs (drawing the eye to the horizontal)
  • Look for some coverage over your shoulder blades
  • Avoid wide open backs or circular cut backs
  • Avoid criss cross straps that emphasize horizontal lines and width across your back
  • A variety of leg cuts work well depending on length of leg and personal preference

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This is a category unto itself, but can and often is, combined with other body shapes. There is one thing that connects all these dancers, however, and here it is; no dancer wants to wear a bra under their leotard.

We’ve seen these dancers talk about wider straps to hide bras, or the desire for lined leos or a shelf bra incorporated.  One dancer we worked with said that she purchases her leotards in very small sizes to, in effect, bind her breasts so she feels confident in her dancing.  We nearly cried for her.  Here’s what we found for those of you with larger cup sizes.

  • Tighter fabrics (again lycra or lycra blends) tend to work best
  • Solid colors without detailing (pinches or ruching) in the bust area will take your eye up and away from it
  • Squared off neck lines tend to work really well
  • Leotards that are not wide open in back
  • Shelf liners that fit snugly around the rib cage work best for your confidence
  • Avoid leotards with full lining - they tend to pull your breasts down rather than support them
  • Coverage in the armpit area will lead to a smoother, more flattering line - watch for that in your camisoles
  • ¾ sleeves are often a great choice

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For those of us with wider hips (I include myself in this category), our eyes often lead us to overly focus on our thighs.  A leo with a more rounded thigh shape may accompany a wider hip.  (To clarify, I am talking about shape, not weight).

There are two things we need to look for - 1)  Leotards that have wider shoulder lines or chest area coverage to even out our shape, and 2) Bum coverage with the right leg height.

We tend to do very well with cap and 3/4 sleeves.  Look for camisoles with straps that sit farther (wider out) on the shoulders. Square and boat necklines can be lovely, and a good V-neck or ¾ sleeve leo is wonderful.

Wide hipped ladies have an easier time looking good in a variety of back styles.

Wider hips

  • Cap sleeves or ½ to ¾ length sleeves work really well
  • Wider straps placed far out on shoulders work best for camisoles.
  • V-neck ¾ sleeves  are particularly flattering, pulling the eye sideways (sorry not shown here)
  • Leotards that have wider chest area coverage even out our shape
  • Halters are not a good choice, particularly if the cut is narrow to the neck
  • A wide variety of back styles can work well for us
  • Mid to high-cut legs tend to be more flattering
  • Avoid low-cut legs at all costs
  • Avoid high-cut legs that cause issues with bum coverage

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A longer torso is something we see in perhaps 15% of our clients. These dancers often don’t know they have a long torso, they just tend to know they look best in a high cut leg line. If you are unsure if this is your shape, here’s what I found online that might help determine your torso length:

Start by measuring from your armpits down to your waist. Note the distance from your waist to your top hip line. If your first measurement is shorter than your second measurement, you have a short torso. If your second measurement is shorter, you have a longer torso.

For long torsos, the general rule is to stay away from leotards that create more length in the body. The more fabric on your leotard, the longer you look! Avoid turtle necks, halters, and boat necks (yes, sorry ladies, many of the contemporary cuts out there are not for you).  Dimensionally, the longer the line of fabric, the longer your torso looks.

Lower necklines such as camisoles, strappy tanks, and V-necks will help to balance out your proportions. Another great trick is to look for leotards that are two-toned, or for those that have detail in the upper 1/3rd such as a lace overlay.

Long Torso Cheat sheet

  • Camisoles, V necks, and lower necklines are good - we want skin on top
  • Two tones and horizontal lines that visually divide your body are good, as they create the illusion of shorter spaces
  • Long sleeves will be preferable in mesh
  • Avoid halters, boat necks, and turtlenecks
  • Backs that are medium are best - too low or full back leotards tend to create length in back
  • Medium high to high cut legs will further cut the line

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A shorter torso is a body shape that we often see that comes with its own set of strengths and challenges.  This shape can be identified when the bottom of your ribcage is very close to the top of your hip bones.

Our goal with these dancers is to create a visual waistline and the illusion of more space between your ribs and hips. We have a ton of posing tricks for those of you with shorter waists, but surprisingly the choice of fabric in your leotard choices is an important consideration as well. I recommend tighter fabrics with sheen. A lycra blend works best to create a sleek line while not adding any bulk to your waist.  Staying away from busy prints, cotton/velvet or modal fabrics is the way to go.

Camisoles are one of my favorite cuts for short waisted dancers - the length of arm line to leg line balance that more bare skin creates in a photo can work well.  We avoid horizontal lines and overly high cut legs that tend to further shorten your waist and add bulk where we don’t want it.

Short Waisted Cheat Sheet

  • Fabrics with sheen work well to enhance length
  • Camisoles are my go to for you
  • Halters, V-necks, ¾ sleeves, and higher necklines can work well
  • Avoid cap or short sleeves
  • Avoid horizontal lines/two tones, and bust area details that draw the eye inward
  • Medium to medium low cut legs are most flattering for overall balance
  • The more flattering backs are narrower, more vertical lines rather than horizontal straps or cuts.

Click to view larger

This body shape is often (but not always) similar to the short waisted dancer. Here we are looking at not just the distance from the hips to the bottom of the ribs, but also a boxier silhouette.  Our goal here is to accentuate the waist line and look for a lengthening effect.

We can start with the above guidelines for adding the perspective of length, and go further to add one main feature - slight diagonal lines.  By moving toward V necks, or halters, we can accentuate the waist line and add curves to the body. When choosing camisoles we would avoid the straight vertical straps in favor of ones angled slightly inward. Boxy, square, or horizontal (boat) necklines should be avoided.

One of the differences we found in our explorations between the short waisted and square shaped torso was in the leotard's leg cuts.  Remember when I said the higher the leg cut for short waisted dancer added to the disproportion?  For the boxier square shaped body we found a mid to higher leg helped to draw the eye to the angle, actually helping to lengthen and give more of a waist.

Square/Boxy Shape Cheat Sheet

  • Necklines with diagonal lines such as halters and V-necks are great
  • Fabrics with sheen work well to enhance length
  • Avoid square, horizontal (boat) necklines or
  • Camisoles with angled straps are best (avoid straight vertical lines)
  • Mid to high cut legs are most flattering to create an illusion of waist
  • The more flattering backs are narrower, more vertical lines rather than horizontal straps or cuts.

Click to view larger

All curvy ladies know they are curvy.  The hourglass shape that is coveted in some parts of our world and in commercial dance is something many classical dancers wish to not have. We have worked with so many dancers who are frustrated that companies are not making leotards for this shape. We hear and see you all!

Ladies, for your body shape I will recommend that you make sure you can either return your leotards when you buy them, or walk into a store to try on.  So many styles are designed around a more angular or straighter shape, and you are just not going to know how that style you love is going to look on you until you put it on.  DO NOT TRUST drawings or pictures in catalogs.

Generally - leg heights are very important.  We found that mid heights were best, too high or too low a leg cut accentuates the curves (unless you are going for that!).  So choose for the look that you find the most flattering.

Again, my fav leos for curvy dancers are the camisoles.  But here’s something new that I learned in the making of this guide - we definitely favored slightly or lightly rounded necklines. The more extreme the leotard necklines (think straight across boat necks, scoops, or the old fashioned sweetheart necklines with or without pinches) the curvier you look.  Lightly rounded necklines tend to flatter your shape the most.

One of the cheats we regularly talk about with dancers in this category is altering their leotards to make sure that their straps sit in the right place.  We all can sew a pointe shoe ribbon right?  Why not take a minute to move or tighten those straps at the back of your camisole so that you look and feel your best?

Curvy Dancer Cheat Sheet:

  • Medium to high cut legs are best
  • Lightly curved necklines work well
  • Avoid overly round or overly horizontal shapes
  • Try on, Try on, Try on!
  • Camisoles or  long sleeves will work well
  • Avoid caps or short sleeves
  • Beware of strong patterns in the wrong places
  • Vertical lines in back tend to be most flattering

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Balancing out the need for coverage with a proportions pleasing fit is the same no matter your size. I tend to find the above rules for shapes and body types hold true for full figured dancers as well.  Building confidence with these ladies is my goal - we need to make sure you feel beautiful AND have the support you need to feel good about taking on all combinations in class and rehearsals.

I have worked with several dancers who preferred, as mentioned above, to wear a bra under their leotards, and others who chose tighter fitting fabrics and/or choose to customize their leotards to their tastes. While we follow the above guides for shape, choosing the right size is just as integral. Not all leotard fabrics are created equally. Many stretch more than others and in either length or width depending on the cut. We often start off trying on a large but end up in mediums and even smalls.

We recommend starting with the general type of body shape that you associate yourself with for the overall choice of leotard shape and then work to fit the bust area first.  Again, confidence in feeling supported is our first aim for a great class or audition.

Full figured Cheat Sheet

  • Tighter fabrics (again lycra or lycra blends) with shine tend to work best
  • Solid colors without detailing (pinches or ruching) in the bust area will take your eye up and away from it
  • Shelf liners that fit snugly around the rib cage may work best for your confidence
  • Avoid leotards with full lining - they tend to pull your breasts down rather than support them
  • ¾ sleeves are often a great choice
  • Work to fit the bust area first
  • Try different sizes depending on the leotard company

Click to view larger

The quality of your marketing materials is crucial in moving your career forward.  Making sure your choice of leotard flatters your body shape and the poses you are working on is, we believe, critical. You’ve put in too many hours, too many years, too much money and sacrifice to not make sure that you are confident that you look your best in your photos and videos.  These will be your first impressions and what directors will come back to for referencing you in their decision processes.  

We often begin with what “feels” good - a softer fabric choice, a color that sings to us, a leo that is super tight to control a bust, or a little too big to hide wide hips (or make us feel thinner on a fat day).

The quality of your marketing materials is crucial in moving your career forward.  Making sure your choice of leotard flatters your body shape and the poses you are working on is, we believe, critical. You’ve put in too many hours, too many years, too much money and sacrifice to not make sure that you are confident that you look your best in your photos and videos.  These will be your first impressions and what directors will come back to for referencing you in their decision processes.